Slab City Paradise, The Last Free Place On Earth
The most striking aspect of Slab City located in the Imperial Valley area in the Colorado Desert a sub-region of the larger Sonoran Desert, is that Artistic representations are everywhere. The ad hoc ‘city’ is only a city by description, not holding the features and attributes, of traditional city status but is an alternative living commune of modern Californian and assorted USA civilizational refugees, populated by those who have fallen foul or fallen out of the modern rat race for one reason or another.
Slab City is situated in an extensive stretch of desert land on the outskirts of Salton Sea, near (4 miles) Niland California. During WWII the land area, now used by the colourful, eccentric, and artistically inclined escapees from the brutal modern city life of California metropolises and Snowbirds (geriatric gypsies) from the north US and Canada, was once a military base. Snowbirds make the journey to Slab City during the cold northern Winter months and stay at Slab from October to June, to warm their old bones. The camp Dunlap Marine Base was used as an artillery and anti-aircraft training area, in the 1950s. Contemporarily there are three military training sites just over the fence from Slab City, where live firing exercises are held. After the base was decommissioned and the Barracks demolished, all that remained were the concrete slabs on which the buildings were built, hence the name Slab City. Around the mid-1960s several squatters, who were moved on from their encampment by authorities near the painted cliffs, just a stone's throw from Mecca, made their way to what is now known as Slab City. These people were the second wave, preceded by military veterans, and were among the early settlers, of the pre-modern community of alternative lifestyle desert dwellers. Imagine hippies, VW Combi vans with floral paint jobs, daisy chain hair bands and braids, psychedelia, and twin bong exhausts. A vibrant mixture of people, some making a living by artisanal production and others trust fund rebels, who never knew where their bread was buttered. A world away from the modern-day inhabitants who carry a distinctly modern luggage and attitude.
The land is owned by the California state and was donated by the Department of Defence by a quitclaim. Later via California legislation, it was deemed any revenue made on the land, present and future would go to the California state teachers' retirement system. This in and of itself may be the straw that breaks Slab City's free status, as California is thrashing around on the brink of bankruptcy, and like a wounded hoover is sucking up cash by any means necessary and this pressure may well leak out to slab city. Surveyors are already eyeing up the land for the neoliberal vultures' for repurposing, and some form of gentrification may result, although not to the extent where the aim will be building Condos or Florida-type retirement homes, more so a static trailer and RV homestead, where tenants will be expected to pay rent and will no doubt will be a welcome tax revenue raising enterprise for the failing state of California with a $30 billion deficit.
Source: Osceola Refetoff - www.ospix.com
One of the most distinctive features visitors to the commune cannot fail to notice is a structure called Salvation Mountain.
Leonard Knight: I built Salvation Mountain because I want everybody to know God loves them.
The creator of Salvation Mountain was a man known as Leonard Knight, who built the structure from Adobe and donated paint, taking Knight 30 years to complete the project. Dan Westfall, a close friend of Knight, who sadly passed away on February 10th, 2014, applauds his friend's commitment, saying, “he worked on the mountain all day, every day”. “He even slept at the mountain's base in the back of a pick-up truck, with no electricity or running water. He bathed in the nearby natural hot springs. Westfall told KPBS that Knights' resilience always amazed him”. The image below demonstrates Leonard’s lifetime work, an impressive structure with vivid colors and patterns, theological symbology, and religious messaging which is a testament to Knights’ faith and a Slab City landmark.
The Allure of Slab City lies in its freedom to build and camp anywhere on the land for free without planning permission. All anyone has to do is find a vacant piece of land and define their border by fence or wall. People come here for a variety of reasons, outlaws running from law enforcement, and many who are crushed by unemployment or lack of employment opportunities, as we well know most folks are one paycheck away from economic oblivion, and others who feel rejected by wider society. And last but not least, the snowbirds who are running from the cold northern climes. Everyone is running from something either themselves, the weather, or the mayhem they have left in their wake. Slab City can be an epiphany moment for those who are willing or forced to make the transition, where they are eventually accepted by a welcoming but suspicious community that at times can allow them to regain their self-worth or reject them with their natural system of justice.
Anyone watching video blogs that detail Slab City and her residents will reel when the initial imagery is conjured up in their mind. A place that evokes vivid descriptions that sits somewhere between an apocalyptic Mad Max Petro Base and the Book of Eli. One resident, Robert Lane, develops an analogy in an effort to explain the territory, and it goes something like this, “If Palm Springs and Deadwood, South Dakota were to have an illegitimate child it would be Slab City, and that would be Deadwood South Dakota of 1876, and not today”.
There is no local government, no bylaws, punitive and arbitrary fines, taxes, no housing association busybodies, business licenses, building warrants or planning permissions to apply for, no obtrusive public officials, and no utility bills. Freedom does come with its caveats though. For Slabbies that means no running water, electricity grid connection, health service, emergency services, sewerage system, and no trash collection. The compromise is taken up with pleasure for many and grudgingly by others, living away from the overbearing local governance bureaucracy of big city dwelling has its advantages and limitations.
The population from October to May rises to roughly 2-3000. When it starts getting extremely hot around May, the exodus of some Slab City residents begins. This is due to the crushing desert heat, and blistering sun, not for the faint of heart or anyone without Collared lizard DNA. Only the hardiest reptilian residents remain, approximately one hundred over the summer period. David Ike was right, there are lizard people, and they all live in the Colorado desert, all one hundred of them, except they're not plotting to take over the modern world but to escape it.
Recycling
While sifting through clickbait videos about Slab City, I was struck by the ingenuity and technical skills of some residents. The scale of improvisation was off the charts. Everything from homemade showers constructed from old 45-gallon drums, hose piping, and watering cans to internet cafes made from popcorn, plastic, and broken computers and run by solar rig-ups that would give Frankenstein’s monster a run for his money to dwelling structures made from wood pallets, tires, and broken bottles. The three Rs, recycle, reuse, and reduce were made to take on new meaning by residents, nurtured by a needling necessity of self-sustainability. One resident has a fully sustainable living setup, with a vegetable garden, fish farm, and solar power, stored in 12v car batteries to meet his electricity needs. Dr Spencer, a writer and author lives in a structure aptly named the Church of Enlightenment, with a garden that has 6000 edible plants growing, a swimming pool, and four ponds with over a thousand fish, like blue catfish and tilapia. He has over thirty solar panels running four fridges, two freezers, and Elon Musk's Starlink satellite system. Dr Spencer is a man of means and left the big city due to petty bureaucracies. Most slabbers rely on donations to fund their art exhibitions and way of living. If lucky enough you can grab one of Camp Dunlap ammunition Bunkers which are probably the most sought-after real estate in Slab City, considering they are hard to burn and are cooler in the summer. Transportation is a problem for slabbies as most do not own a vehicle. Charlie an innovative big-city refugee took advantage of the transportation deficit and filled this niche market with his talent for recycling and repairing old bikes. His bike shop not only makes standard bicycles but can install petrol motors for his more speed-oriented clientele. Just ask Charlie what speed his petrol bikes reach and his reply is curt and to the point, “scary as hell.”
Give a Slabbie a tube of toothpaste, an orange peel, and two potato skins and they could make you a three-course meal, with two plates, and a knife and fork, with a deck chair to sit and eat your meal.
Social/cultural institutions
Within the Slab community, there are various social institutions, for example, the Internet café and library. Offering a neutral ground where people can meet, socialise, and build connections. They serve as a "third place" outside of home and work, fostering a sense of community and where the Slabbies can co-ordinate the day's operations in terms of survival where time prioritises necessities.
As you enter the internet café there is a display sign with the Poignant phrase, “We Remember Freedom.” The Internet café sells coffee in the morning from 7 am till 10 am and supplies internet access until around sundown when the owner's solar-powered enterprise, functioning with around eight 12v car batteries storing around 1000w of solar power is limited by lack of sunlight. Among other things, the internet café provides phone and laptop charging services. Many residents take advantage of the social aspect of the café for early morning chats, while some of the younger members can play computer games and keep in touch with family or friends. As the image below demonstrates the café is a ramshackle abbreviation of what most people outside Babylon (Slab City colloquialism for place space) and a metropole city internet café, with old furniture and an assortment of reconditioned computer equipment. Can you imagine how public officials in the big city would react to this setup, gives me a little chuckle just thinking about it. The café is paid for purely by donations from its eccentric and colorful patrons. Zack a young man with physical features that are probably less than two genetic mutations away from the Hillbilly banjo player in the Burt Reynolds film ‘Southern Comfort’, with a more animated and aggressive disposition and connections to Providence Rhode Island, considers the café owner Robert as one of his good friends, describing the internet café as a type of home from home.
Library
Aurora was the original custodian and head librarian of the Slab City Library. Recently she has moved on from her post as head librarian, replaced by Brandi. The Library is open from 9 am to 6 pm from Thursday to Sunday. Funded by donations, books, and most importantly cat food. Cats are essential guardians of the library, their skill in mouse and rat control, is vital considering the inconvenient habit of rodents loving to munch on paper. The library has a quintessential country wood-built, lizard tree charm to it, with an airy, serene calm. Shelves are stacked with thousands of books, games, and magazines. Out back, is the relaxing porch area where readers can chill while they read, with the quiet flow of canal water, as if emitting relaxing alpha waves, makes the moment just perfect while the reader disappears into their book. Poetry night is held on a Thursday evening with aspiring Shakespearean contributions from residents, striving to equal the greats but possibly not as accomplished as William Blake. The new Librarian Brandi is in the process of designing an art and craft studio, come esoteric and occult section, and a patchouli lounge add-on. As a social institution Slab City Library is a great place for bridging the gap in terms of knowledge gains, encouraging lifelong learning, and a welcoming place hosting events where residents can share their art.
The Range
Who would have thought an open-air nightclub in the middle of the Colorado desert and one of Slab City's favourite venues. On most weekends the Range is a focal point for the community with homegrown musicians playing every Saturday night live on stage and visiting musicians complimenting local talent with renditions of everything from Canned Heat to Creedence Clearwater from Dylan to Clapton and from, well, you know, just about every music genre out there has been captured in the long energetic history of the Range. Their potluck dinner night looks great, with music dancing, romance, and wine all combining to make great social memories. A cultural community hub making connections stronger.
East Jesus
Charles Russel (Container Charlie) a techy moved out to Slab City around 2006/7. His original plan was to help with the Salvation Mountain build but then moved on to create a Slab City cultural institution, which he named East Jesus. The name East Jesus according to legend relates to a mid-western saying, meaning, as far into the wilderness you can possibly go. Mopar the Wizard is the official host and tour guide at East Jesus, apparently, he has an impaired work ethic but nonetheless is a welcoming character. Every Mother's Nightmare Playground is an eclectic variety of steel sculptures and is an East Jesus attraction and one that would not be out of place in a modern art exhibition. Amongst other attractions, is a large 15 ft diameter Peace sign made of shoes, a wall made of wine bottles, another wall made from TVs, and building structures that resemble abstract and surrealist art. Something of Salvador Dali meets Bob the Builder after a few beers. One of the stand-out structures for me was the bell tower a magnificent 30 ft tall performance art installation that I’m sure Antoni Gaudi would have given a thumbs up. Not quite as grand as Sagrada Família but an evolving structure all the same. Sculptures. Paintings and performance art are all on show for the artistically minded Slab City patrons and tourists.
Health care and education
Health care is conspicuous by its absence in Slab City and if in the event one falls ill or has any other medical emergency, this requires traveling to Niland or Brawley both towns that are within driving distance from the community. A lack of clean water and sanitation is a driver of illness, with water having to be transported from other areas. Dysentery, infections, and illness from dirty water are common. Toilets are usually homemade or more accurately, are simply holes in the ground, with a loo popped over the hole. The heat and lack of trash collection contribute to a variety of health-related risks and ailments. Occasionally doctors or nonprofit groups will do some pro Bono work in the community, albeit on very rare occasions. Health care is a serious challenge, particularly considering the living environment. Schools and education are met outwith the community in most cases although there are those that home-school their children. For adults, education is an informal pastime, learning new skills, for example, how to set up solar panel systems, vehicle repair, and domicile building are essential skills to learn. There is also a library, where Slabbies can access a wide range of reading materials.
Economy
Snowbirds are a net contributor to the local economy, by buying or donating goods and providing services in Slab City’s alternative economy. An economy, unlike most American towns or cities, with no big businesses, agricultural enterprises, or manufacturing units. The people in Slab City are more inclined to sell artisanal products, like paintings sculptures, and trinkets, predominantly relying on trading and bartering. Residents will exchange skills and labour for food items, water, and other essentials. There are some residents that receive welfare payments for example people with disabilities may receive welfare checks. Cash isn’t a much-used currency of exchange, although a small fee of 3 dollars can be used to pay for a solar-powered shower. The average slabby can live on $100 per month, nevertheless, money isn’t the big issue, self-sufficiency is a higher-valued abstract commodity, in terms of survival. There is no trash collection so slabbies will recondition, recycle, and innovate with an assortment of materials and other discarded goods, either as artistic representations or to make furniture among many other useful items. Tourism helps the slab economy in the winter with many visitors arriving to meet the people and get a small taste of Slab life. Tours, selling souvenirs, and renting out camping spots all contribute to the Slab economy. The tweaker trade is part of the informal economy, with meth labs that supply their customers, or as many residents refer to them, bush monsters, that lay in the bush until Slabbies leave their domiciles, at which point, they steal whatever they can carry in exchange for meth or other exotic class A narcotics.
The criminal justice system is natural justice based.
In terms of how the community police itself, child protection is high on the agenda and those found to be involved in abusing children, rape, or animal abuse will be subject to a form of Slab justice meted out by way of having all their possessions unceremoniously confiscated by the community, and their RV, trailer or building structure burnt to the ground and deported. This type of slab justice is more often than not, applicable across a wide range of socially unacceptable behaviour, even up to being considered an arsehole, by the community. As Robert Lane explains there are morals out here, and with a nod of his head, adds, that they're just different. The rule is anyone can do as they please unless it negatively impacts someone else's life. Make an enemy in slab and they just might come and burn your camp down, hence why respect is a highly valued and necessary social skill. Most people's behaviours align with this principle, albeit almost universal, there is a problem with tweaker (meth addicts) thefts and loud parties at all hours in the morning that wake up nearby residents. Tweaking is understood as the erratic behaviour displayed by those under the influence of methamphetamine, for example, a tweaker may just dig a hole for no apparent reason and think they are being productive. Although, not likely to be useful to tweakers, at some point, someone may well use it as a shit drop box. So in some small and indirect way may be contributing to a sanitation service in Slab.
One could walk away from a visit to Slab City with the view that it's just a bunch of drug addicts, but this view doesn’t explain all the other residents who are generally well-behaved and respectful people who just want to live their lives without drama. It is overarchingly an artist community, that loves to indulge their creativity, albeit, just like big cities or even small towns there are problems associated with alcohol and drug abuse.
Summary
Despite the hardships, Slab City boasts a vibrant and creative culture. The community has developed its own social institutions, including an internet café, library, art installation, and their popular open-air nightclub, fostering a sense of connection and shared experience. Slab City has a unique culture, way of life, and traditions, with prominent structures like the anarchic artistic creation Salvation Mountain, standing around fifty feet tall, and a testament to one man's faith. From Salvation to East Jesus, an eclectic art installation, and to the numerous examples of recycled and repurposed materials used in homes and art. Their natural form of justice their traditions of barter and exchange, and their potluck dinner gatherings at The Range and morning coffee gatherings, foster a sense of connection and shared experiences. Artists, outlaws, snowbirds, and society rebels make for a type of felonious cosmopolitanism generating weird and wonderful artsy iterations like skeleterariums, taxidermy dinners, open-air night clubs, petrol bicycles, abstract and unhinged art. A Savage punk attitude, non-conformity, and rejecting conventional city norms are all cultural attributes and attitudes of slab city, where everyone wears their life on their face.
However, that is all about to change, there is now a de-facto quasi-local community governance structure creeping in to stifle, contain, and manage Slab City residents and fractures are appearing in the community with East Jesus buying up land where residents are living and no doubt will be moved on in short shrift. The surveyors have been out, land put up for sale and the gentrification process is underway. As most artists are aware, art is a feature of civilisation and is often one of the first features to appear alongside tools, shelters, and forms of social organization. Meaning, there was always the inevitability, as those attributes are all found in Slab City, and the fact residents were already emersed and conditioned in modern western civilizational ways before they arrived, this certainty has almost arrived.
The state of California, facing financial difficulties, is eyeing the land for potential revenue generation. Surveyors have been seen on the land and whispers of gentrification are growing louder. The potential for imposed regulations, land sales, and development threatens the very essence of Slab City's free-spirited existence. I suggest that the inherent presence of art, alongside other hallmarks of civilization like tools and shelter, hints at the inevitable encroachment of organized society. The question remains whether Slab City can retain its unique identity or if it will ultimately succumb to the pressures of the outside world.
References
Carone, A (2014) KPBS, Leonard Knight, Creator of Salvation Mountain, dies at age 82, Available at: Leonard Knight, Creator of Salvation Mountain, Dies At 82 | KPBS Public Media
Hillard, G. (2012) NPR, Down And Out Escape To 'Slab' In California Desert.
14 Days In a City With No Laws: Slab City a Squatters Paradise